We had the best week long holiday in Ireland – 6 nights and 7 days to be precise. It was the perfect combination of a road trip, countryside, small towns, and big city. We drove down windy roads (on the wrong other side of the road, mind you!), through rolling green hills, we visited small pubs and castles, but also walked miles in the city in search of cafes and bars and traditional Irish music. This girlfriend holiday was everything, and then some!
We’re happy to share our one week itinerary with you. It was done at a relaxed pace, as a holiday should be. We didn’t go everywhere but we’re saving that for next time. Because there will be plenty more trips to Ireland in the future.
If you have any questions, leave a comment and we’ll get back to you stat!
BEFORE YOU GO –
Get your international driver’s license. It’s really simple, you can get it from the Emirates Post Office.
Rent a car. We pre-booked a Nissan Qashqai via Auto Europe. Car rentals in Ireland require a huge deposit, this website was the only one that charged us €100 instead of 5,000. We also paid a bit extra for full collision damage coverage, theft deductible – you can choose these options when you pick up your car but we wanted to do it before hand – so it would be a hassle free ride when we got there.
We also booked hotels before going so knew where we had to be at the end of each day. In between was flexible to enjoy exploring and getting lost along the way. Because in Ireland, you’d never regret it!
ON ARRIVAL –
We took flight EK161 from Dubai to Dublin. We arrived at noon, collected our bags, bought a SIM card with data, and went straight to the Hertz counter in Terminal 1. The plan was to drive straight to Galway, explore that side of the island first, and then come back to Dublin and ditch the car (because our flight back to Dubai was from there, and also – you don’t need a car in the city).
The Hertz staff member checked out our licenses (we presented our international license but he wanted to see the UAE one – so remember to carry that too) and directed us to a bus stop just outside. Here you get on a mini bus and are taken to a huge yard where all the car rental companies are located.
Luckily, we got an upgrade! We received keys to a shiny black Audi A4. In preparation for this road trip, we had read lots of articles and forums about driving on the other side of the road. It was nerve wrecking at first but as soon as we drove out of that parking lot, we realised that Ireland has made it very easy for people to stay in the right direction. There are clearly marked arrows everywhere, roads don’t let you turn to the wrong side, and it was overall, a super smooth experience! Felt very easy, like we’d done this forever!
DAY 1 – DUBLIN TO GALWAY VIA ATHLONE
Our first destination was Galway which is a mere 2.5 hours away down on a straight highway. We decided to break up the journey, picking Athlone as our first stop.
We parked next to Athlone castle (keep coins for parking) which looks like a fortress. We didn’t go in but walked around the area. There are a few shops but the ones that pulled us in were a bookshop and Sean’s Bar, which we learnt is the oldest pub in all of Europe! It’s been serving customers since 900AD! We also went into a cute gift shop called Bastion Gallery. They sell all types of knick knacks, wall art, jewellery designed and made in Ireland, as well as ethically sourced gifts from around the world.
Back in the car and off we went to our hotel for the night in Galway. We were exhausted so stayed in, had dinner and called it a night. If you want a night out, head to Tig Coili which is a local pub with great atmosphere and traditional music, seven days a week.
DAY 2 – GALWAY
We woke up bright and early (thanks jetlag) and headed to Coffeewerk + Press. For breakfast, go to McCambridge’s which is a family owned restaurant, deli and fine foods shop that’s been around for nearly 100 years. It would be wrong not to order the full Irish breakfast which comes with free range poached eggs, sausage, coffee maple streaky bacon, black and white pudding, herb roasted potatoes, Portobello mushrooms, a tomato relish and soda bread. All for only €10.95 (AED 46).
Unfortunately we couldn’t go here because it was a Sunday and everything opens after 10am (make sure you check timings). Instead, we went to this cute little tea house called Cupán Tae, located in the heart of Galway’s Latin Quarter.
Celebrating with mimosas because we can’t believe we’re in Ireland! Dream come true!
Breakfast done, we joined a free walking tour of the city. It was a good intro into the history of Ireland as the guide covered the main sights like Eyre Square, Lynch’s Castle, Kirwan’s Lane, Latin Quarter, and the Spanish Arch.
After the tour, we went to Charlie Byrne’s bookshop which is a paradise for bibliophiles. This store has hundreds of thousands of books, both old and new, across any genre. We could have spent days in there but restrained ourselves to an hour or so. We picked up a few titles written by local Irish authors.
For lunch, we went to Cava Bodega, a Spanish tapas bar and restaurant on Middle street. Its owned by JP McMahon, who is the chef-proprietor of Galway’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Aniar. We were drawn in by a funny sign outside, and inside, it is just as gorgeous with exposed wood furniture. The meat is either Irish, free-range, local, or wild and reflects a “nose to tail” policy. We got a few nibbles with a glass of vino: bacalao (salted cod) cakes, octopus pincho topped with onion marmalade and piquillo pepper, and a bowl of crispy pork crackling with mushroom salt. YUM!
Three minutes away, we came across St. Nicholas Church, which is the largest medieval church in Ireland, still in use today. Parts of it dates back to 1320 and it is said that Christopher Columbus prayed here in 1477 before sailing in an attempt to the reach the New World. Just behind the church is a bustling street market which has also been around for centuries. You will find stalls selling fresh produce and locally made crafts. There are food stalls: curry, crepes, sushi, cookies, and more. I saw a long line at BoyChik doughnuts so join the queue. Well worth it!
Daniel Rosen is a permanent fixture at this market and sells doughnuts 3 ways: dusted with cocoa, cinnamon or plain sugar. Mind you, these are no Krispy Kreme doughnuts. They were dense but warm and inviting, and a good representation of Galway’s market fare.
You can spend the rest of your day walking around Quay Street, lined with pubs, restaurants, and clothing stores. It is a good place to get a drink, sit outside, people watch and soak in the Galway city vibes. For amazing seafood, especially fish and chips, go to McDonagh’s. For good wood-fired pizza, the Dough Bros is very popular. For something a bit more upscale, head to Ard Bia at Nimmos which serves a seasonal gourmet Mediterranean, Middle Eastern Irish mix menu. The restaurant is in an 18th century stone building which was originally a boat house. It sits on the edge of the River Corrib to the right of the Spanish Arch.
DAY 3 – GALWAY TO DOOLIN
After a nice big breakfast in the hotel, we checked out and headed towards Doolin. We had no agenda for the day, other than to visit the Kelly’s Oyster Farm in Kilcolgan. Kelly’s is a family business, run by brothers Michael and Diarmuid. We got to see the family home where they run the business out of, Dairmuid drove us down to the seashore to see the oyster beds and learn how this delicacy is harvested, and I even got to taste a few varieties straight out of the water! One of the highlights of the trip! If you are keen to visit as well, drop them a DM on Instagram and they might oblige, time permitting (cost €35 per person).
Some of the other cool things we saw along the way are: Tyrone House, a ruined manor house built in the 1770s. It was destroyed by the Irish Republican Army unit during the Irish War of Independence in the early 1900’s. We also visited Dunguaire Castle which was built in 1520 (cost €8 per person). Not much to look at but it was interesting to see what the inside of a castle looks like, and imagine the people who lived there, and the history within the stone walls.
We had lunch at Moran’s Oyster Cottage. The location is stunning and the food is just as beautiful. Definitely try the local oysters, the seafood chowder (a Seven Generation old recipe), and the fish and chips. If you’re just stopping through for some cheese and wine, get the Irish Farmhouse Cheese Board which is served with a selection of smoked Gubbeen, Cashel Blue, Durrus and brie.
Final stop for the day is Doolin. It is the sweetest little village on the Wild Atlantic Way and your 12-24 hours will be jam packed with a whole lot of fun – so don’t miss it! All the details on what to do in Doolin can be found here.
DAY 4 – DOOLIN TO DUBLIN
You need to return your car at around the same time that you picked it up. Since we collected it at 1:30pm, we had to return it back to Dublin airport by that time (you get a 30mins buffer or you are charged a full day rate). We had breakfast in the hotel and hit the road by 9am.
We drove to Dublin via Wicklow National Park. It is a massive 20,000 hectares area with gorgeous wild mountain landscapes that stretch out into the horizon, and narrow, twisty roads for days – making for a beautiful scenic drive. There are several walking trails as well but we didn’t stop anywhere as we were in a hurry. If you have the time though, some good options are Powerscourt waterfall which is Ireland’s highest waterfall at 121m, Johnnie Fox’s pub and restaurant, or Avoca at Powerscourt House for delicious salads and dessert
We got back to the city right on time and returning the car was a breeze. They give you the car with a full tank of diesel/ petrol and expect you to return it the same way. If you don’t, they will do it for you at a surcharge of a few dollars – which is perfect!
We spent the next 3 nights, 4 days in Dublin. Blog post will all the details coming soon!
Let us know if you have any questions xx
WHERE TO STAY –
- GALWAY: We didn’t like the hotel we stayed in. Instead, suggest you try Forester Court Hotel which was our first choice, unfortunately it was fully booked.
- DOOLIN: We highly recommend Doolin Inn