It’s been a while since I last wrote on here. I think I was waiting for something really special to talk about, and this recent trip reignited that spark.
I travelled to Italy few weeks ago, representing Canada as the Ambassador for Host Milano. After a busy week in the city and long days at the show, my final stop before heading back home to Toronto was Biella to visit my friend Virginia, whom I met at Host two years ago. We became fast friends almost instantly, as if we’d known each other for years! She had always insisted I visit her hometown in Piedmont – for its beauty, slower pace, and amazing food, so I was thrilled to finally make it happen.
Nestled at the foothills of the Valle d’Aosta, Virginia’s home, with its stunning mountain backdrop and crisp October air, was the perfect place to unwind. Determined to show me the best of her region, she planned a little road trip for us to explore another beautiful corner of Piedmont: the Langhe. Our destination was a gorgeous hidden gem called Vigne di Fagnano, which is a serene country relais in Santo Stefano Belbo.
From the moment we arrived, owners Carlo and his wife Manila, welcomed us like old friends. Their warmth set the tone for the entire stay. This isn’t a hotel where you check in and you’re left alone. It’s a home, filled with character, art, and history, and Carlo and Manila are always around to tell you stories about every corner of the property.
Vigne di Fagnano sits in a restored 18th-century noble farmhouse that once belonged to the Ravone Anfossi family. The property has seven suites, each tastefully designed with frescoed ceilings, antique terracotta floors, and vintage trunks that serve as book shelves to hold old magazines and books (from the early 1900’s!) and photographs from Carlo and Manila’s private collection.
Carlo takes great pride in his garden, growing vegetables, herbs, flowers and lots of lavender. These ingredients make their way to the table every day – in the bread that Manila bakes, the jam at breakfast, or the spreads served at aperitivo. It is farm-to-table in its truest sense.
That evening, Carlo and Manila invited us for aperitivo in the Salon. As Carlo added wood to the fire place, we sank into the large leather sofa and indulged in an incredible spread of local cheeses, cured meats, and Manila’s warm homemade bread.
We toasted with Alta Langa bubbly, one of six local wines the relais carries. Carlo knows every producer personally, proof of how small and intimate this place feels. Every bottle has a story, and every glass carries a sense of connection to the village.
The next morning, I woke up to complete stillness. The only sounds were birds and the soft rustle of the trees outside.
Breakfast was another highlight: homemade cakes, jam, and bread straight from the oven. Everything came from their garden or small local farms.
Around the property, I spotted beautiful calligraphy on the walls which turned out to be quotes from Cesare Pavese (in his own handwriting!) Cesare was a famous poet, novelist and translator who was born in Santo Stefano Belbo, and his presence is still felt and his memories kept alive here, especially as he often wrote about these hills.
The next day, Carlo accompanied us to the Fondazione Cesare Pavese, home to the Pavese Museum. We also stopped for one last espresso in the village café, before we bid him farewell and continued on our way to Torino. I was going as Virginia’s plus one to Buonissima, an Italian gastronomy festival. The food, the city, that experience – all deserves a post of its own! TBC 🙂
I left Vigne de Fagnano wanting to tell everyone I know about it, and already dreaming of going back. My camera roll is overflowing with photos that barely capture its beauty.
Its trips like this that remind me of why I travel – not just to see new places, but to meet the people who make these places come alive.
Piedmont, with its rolling hills, incredible flavours, and quiet rhythm, has a way of staying with you. It’s not Florence that is full of tourists. Piedmont is still untapped and that’s why I know I’ll return. If only to sit under the centuries-old pine tree at Vigne di Fagnano, glass of Alta Langa in hand, watching the light fade across the hills.
If You Ever Find Yourself in Santo Stefano Belbo…
This little village in the Langhe is worth exploring. Here are some stops we made:
- Eat at Ristorante Stazione – for traditional Piedmontese cuisine done beautifully.
- Walk around the town of Canelli – peaceful, picturesque, and quintessentially Italian.
- Wine tasting at Coppo 1892 – historic underground wine cellars.
Love this!