‘Eli ‘eli kau mai – let awe possess me
Let me start by explaining. This post is the definition of procrastination. You know how that goes, right?
You think you’ll write a blog post about that awesome experience “soon” and you procrastinate and procrastinate some more. Then you realise one day that the post went from being something amazing in your mind which you couldn’t wait to share, to being potentially irrelevant to anyone, to then becoming a completely different story. And that somehow it is relevant after all. And has taught you some life lessons along the way.
This is that story.
December 2017
When visiting my sister in Hawai’i, she was very excited to take me to the Volcanoes National Park, which is home to two volcanoes including Kīlauea caldera – one of the most active volcanoes on earth. It’s located on the Big Island, a mere 45-minute drive from Hilo side or a 2-hour drive from Kona side. She said it was going to be a beauty unlike anything I’d ever seen before – and she was right…
As you drive up, the landscapes are dreamy. You drive by open fields and windy tree lined roads, and eventually end up at the lava fields. The land where once stood rain forests are now covered with miles and miles of lava rock in all shapes and forms. My sister was right; the fiery destruction had created something so unique and beautiful, unlike anything I’d ever seen.
As you drive on, you see signboards marking lava flow over the decades at that exact spot. Its surreal thinking that there was once molten orange hot lava sweeping through, where you’re now stood. Incredible!
Once you pass the lava fields, you drive on to what feels like the edge of the world. The mighty ocean, mirroring the sky and looking all blue and fierce, along with rock formations. It’s worth parking on the side and getting out of the car to take a look.
After all that driving and walking, we had built up quite an appetite so we headed to the Volcano House Hotel, perched on the rim of Kīlauea. I was super excited about this because it was the only research I’d done about restaurants to visit on the Big Island, and it was so worth it!
My sister had made a reservation for the first seating at The Rim at the Volcano House. We got a table right by the window which had clear views of the crater. Get there when the sun is still out because with the sunset, the crater glow as it gets dark is really something.
The food at the Rim was glorious. Everything we ordered was delicious and I was already planning my next visit there. This is before I knew what was to ensue.
Asian Barbecue Prawns 
Ahi Poke Stack 
Coffee Rubbed Lamb
As the sun (and wine) went down, the glow from the crater got brighter, and we sat there taking it all in. The peace and quiet as we sipped our Sauvignon Blanc, yet this fire erupting in spurts from fissures in the near distance. Was this real life?
We drove back with our bellies full and our heart full of wonder, and we couldn’t stop talking about how amazing this little day trip was.
May 2018
Fast forward to five months later and I hear from my sister that the park is closed due to increased volcanic and seismic activity of Kīlauea volcano.
Over the next twelve weeks, the news shows that large lava flows covered the land southeast of the park, destroying over 700 homes and devastating residential areas nearby.
July 2018
I was planning to head back to Hawai’i for what has become an annual holiday destination – perks of my sister living there!
“Let’s take the parents to The Rim,” I said.
“Pele is still doing her thing,” she replied. “We just have to let her be.”
Pele who?
Pele is the goddess of volcanoes and fire, and the creator of the Hawaiian Islands. Regardless of religion, Hawaiian people lovingly refer to visiting the volcano by saying “I’m going to go see Pele”. People also leave offerings like fruits and leaves for the beautiful Goddess. In fact, when she decided she wanted to be angry for a little while, people left offerings all over the island, to ask for grace and mercy.
I remember from my first trip there, a sign at the crater look-out point said: “To ho ihi (show respect) for the ‘aina (land), speak in soft tones for those practitioners who may be paying homage to the magnificent Pele”. In silence, at that time, I was in awe with the realization of how sacred Hawaiians treat their land. And there is nothing but love when speaking about the Goddess, even when she seems to be angry, taking homes and livelihoods with her.
I was hoping things would have calmed down by the time I got there months later, but no such luck. Outside of the obvious danger of, you know, lava, the air quality was not great either, making it a no go! I did however, decide to get on a helicopter and go see what a volcano can do.
The beautiful. A hidden waterfall that can only be seen from the sky. 
The scary – when lava meets the water, potentially taking some of the aqua life with it.
It’s true what Tori Amos said in her song: you have never seen fire till you see Pele blow.
February 2019
I finally write this post. Because I procrastinate. But I also learn.
There are a few things I’ve learnt via two very different experiences visiting Pele.
- Procrastination is terrible. You could miss the boat.
- Sometimes missing the boat is a good thing. This experience became so much more than just a unique dining experience. I looked at it from a different point of view (pun intended!) and it the experience took on a whole new meaning.
- When we love someone or something, we have to learn to love it even at it’s worst or most destructive. I learnt this from the Hawaiian people I spoke to. Even when they were scared or angry about all the devastation, there was love.
- The last lesson and probably the most important of them all, is that with devastation comes so much beauty. We just have to wait for all of the scary, the bad and angry to pass. And while what’s left after the devastation won’t look like anything it used to, it will be something else. Something so different and beautiful, you would need to see it to believe it. And once you see it, you will be in awe.
DETAILS:
Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is up and running with some trails potentially closed due to damage. The website gives you daily updates on where you can and cannot go if you are planning to visit. Also, as of September 2018, the restaurant is also open and fully functional.
My sister has a park pass ($50 annual pass) but visitors can get a 7-day pass for $25.
P.S. if you are staying till night time, bring a jacket. It may be Hawai’i but you are at a higher altitude and will freeze your behind off if you rock up in a t-shirt and shorts!