Remember when we used to go on holiday? Yeah, same. Feels like that was a lifetime ago! The pandemic has put a stop on all planning for now. Whenever we can catch a breath in between life and work, we talk about where we’d like to go someday. And how we wish coronavirus would just stop doing its thing so we can all move on, and get on a plane without worrying about getting sick, hand sanitizer or face masks. Ah the dream!
The good news is that wanderlust continues strong. One can always dream and if you’re like us, you’ve probably got a list of all the faraway places you want to visit someday? That’s great because here’s one for your bucket list.
Last November, I had the opportunity to travel to Warsaw in Poland for work. I stayed on for the weekend and managed to fit in an exciting day filled with exploring the city, local food and drink, and even some shopping! If you have just 1 day in Warsaw, here is a list of things to do and see.
Can I just start by saying this was the coldest I’ve ever been in my entire life! I’ve seen snow in Chicago but this was waaay colder. OK. To be fair, I wasn’t expecting it so hadn’t packed properly. The 0 – 2 degrees celsius weather plus windchill had me go to work and then stay within the confines of my warm hotel for the first two nights. On the last day though, I realised I was wasting the opportunity to see a new city so I put on all the layers I brought with me and stepped out. SO worth it!
What to do in Warsaw in 24 hours: A complete 1-day itinerary
MORNING/ BREAKFAST –
For your first treat in Warsaw, try pączki which are Polish doughnuts. Head to local bakery Lubaszka, known to dish out these light and airy glazed goodies. Grab a coffee and one (or 2) of these divine doughnuts filled with rosehip jam.
Location: Galeria Wypieków Lubaszka, Emilii Plater 30
Nourishment sorted, the next thing on the agenda is a free walking tour. You might know it’s my favourite thing to do on my first day in a new city. I went with Orange Umbrella Free Tour and picked the Old Town tour. The meeting point for this is Sigismund’s Column in the Castle Square at 10am. Over the duration of two hours, we got a nice intro into Warsaw past and present, covering main sights like the Royal Castle, Saint John’s Cathedral, Old Town Market, the city walls and the New Town.
Warsaw Old Town, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the oldest part of the city, established in the 13th century. Warsaw Old Town Market Square (Rynek Starego Miasta) is as old as the city itself, also built in the 13th century. It was destroyed in 1944 during WWII, much like the rest of Warsaw, but was rebuilt after the war, complete with the colourful houses to match the original architectural style.
The square was being set up for the Christmas market with stalls and a huge ice rink in the centre. In late November though, all I managed to get was a cup of mulled wine. It stayed warm all of 5 minutes! Brrr…
To get some respite from the cold, we went inside St. John’s Archcathedral and sat on the pews, while the guide told us about the history of the 14th century building. This Gothic style Roman Catholic cathedral was also almost completely destroyed during WWII but several religious paintings survived – sense an ongoing theme here? I was only half listening as my mind was preoccupied with whether my toes were blue from frostbite. Furiously moving my icy toes and willing blood to circulate, I nearly quit the tour. But I wanted to stay on until the end to ask the guide where to eat – because they have the best recommendations. So glad I stuck it out!
LUNCH –
The tour ends at the Uprising Monument and 10-minutes from there, you will find Gosciniec Polskie Pierogi. If there’s one dish you need to eat in Poland, pierogi is it. These moreish dumplings come in a variety of fillings like meat, spinach, mushrooms, cottage cheese with potato and onion (called pierogi ruskie) and more. The burnt butter bacon bits on top added that extra layer of oomph.
Someone also recommended I try sweet pierogi – you can get them with sweet cottage cheese, seasonal fruits, chocolate… I had 9 pieces of the savoury dumplings so didn’t have room for any dessert. But it’s on my list!
Another dish I absolutely adored was sour rye soup, served in a sourdough bread bowl with smoked bacon, horseradish, and polish white sausage. It was smoky, garlicky, creamy and sour. Super comforting in this bone-chilling weather, like a warm hug in a bowl. Anyone know where I can find this soup in Dubai?
Location: Gosciniec Polskie Pierogi, Podwale 19
Another option for lunch is Zapiecek. They have a branch near the Uprising Monument and also do sweet or savoury pierogi, Polish sausages, and what people claim to be “the best potato pancakes in Warsaw”.
Location: Zapiecek, Świętojańska 13
DRINKS & SHOPPING –
In late November, the sun sets at 4pm so knowing I had only 2 hours of day light left, my next stop was Hala Gwardii to pick up some Polish delicacies. Hala Gwardii is an industrial style food hall with vendors selling fruit, veg, bread, deli items, and other local handmade products. I picked up some kiełbasa sausage and pickled treats. Also got a glass of wine and listened to live music.
For some shopping or browsing, head to Zlote Terasy. Its a mall with all the international brands and local brands like Reserved. Look out for 23% tax back.
AFTERNOON TEA (in the dark) –
5pm felt like the right time for coffee and pie. Or tea and pastry in this instance. By now, it was pitch dark but doesn’t matter! I found a cake shop called Lukullus where I ordered the most luscious passion fruit cream dessert with a pot of jasmine tea. Got my book out and people watched. Another option nearby is Chocolate Cafe E.Wedel for some Warming Cream Orange tea and pastry. Wedel is one of Poland’s oldest confectionery companies. Read their story here.
Location: Lukullus, Chmielna 32 and Chocolate cafe E.Wedel, Szpitalna 8
If you’d rather wander around, Chmielna and its side streets are filled with shops and small boutiques. You can find everything from books to clothes, jewellery and more.
DINNER & NIGHTLIFE –
For dinner, head to Polana Smakow which serves modern Polish cuisine. It is owned by Chef Andrzej Polan who has authored books and regularly features on TV shows. For the amuse bouche, they brought out a herring dip with little soft rolls and for my main, I ordered rabbit with cream, horseradish puree, carrot and red onion. It was unlike anything I’ve ever eaten before (in a good way) and the restaurant itself was buzzing with locals. Wonderful experience and highly recommended.
Location: Polana Smakow, Emilii Plater 14
Since I was alone in Warsaw, I called it a night after dinner. But if you’re up for a night out and looking to hit the bars, head to Panorama Sky Bar located on the 40th floor of the Marriot Hotel. It is the highest bar in Warsaw and serves cocktails with a spectacular view.
Another option nearby is Bar Studio located on the ground floor of the Palace of Culture and Science. Dubbed “Stalin’s Last Erection,” the building was a “gift” from the Soviet dictator. Explains why it isn’t exactly loved by the locals. After his regime fell, the building was repurposed to include a university, offices, and run events. Bar Studio is now a place where the local creative community hang out and they do regular concerts here too.
When in Poland, you also need to try the vodka. Elixir Restaurant by Dom Wódki has over 500 vodkas from Poland and around the world, to try with food pairings. If you’re not up for fine dining, there is a Vodka Museum nearby where you can learn about the history of Polish vodka, and learn how it should be slowly and respectfully sipped, tasted and enjoyed.
Other bars:
-I read about Podwale Bar and Books. It was literally across the street from Gosciniec Polskie Pierogi but I wasn’t able to check it out because it opens after 5pm. It is a New York-style cigar bar known for cocktails and live jazz music. Old books line the walls and dark wood interiors make it feel like you’ve stepped back in time. [Closed Sundays and Mondays]
-Also heard that there are several bars on the banks of the Vistula River.
If you have more time, there are museums you can check out like the National Museum, the Uprising Museum, or even visit the Royal Castle. The museum crawl isn’t for me though. I’d rather wander around with no real agenda but to get lost and explore. I find it’s a more relaxing way to discover a new city and still feel like I’ve “seen” a lot.
Warsaw has had a very troubled past. It was hit harder than most European cities during World War II, levelled to the ground with air raids and bombings. It also had the biggest Jewish ghetto in all of Europe which was the site of torturous mass killings. Hearing these details left me feeling sad but looking around, Warsaw is just as charming as any European city. It has discarded its tragic history and is now a thriving city, complete with beautiful cobblestone streets and restored European architecture standing side-by-side with modern skyscrapers.
WHERE TO STAY –
I stayed at the Marriot Hotel Warsaw which was the perfect location for work, but also ideal to cover this entire itinerary on foot. They do a fab breakfast spread from where you can get the best view of the Palace of Culture & Science.
Have you been to Poland? Or anywhere in Eastern Europe? Any highlights to share?
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