Did you know that Bologna is the gastronomic capital of Italy? If you’re someone who appreciates good food and plans your trip around what to eat and where to eat it, you need to add Bologna to your list of places to visit in Italy.
During my trip to Milan a few months ago for HostMilano, I seized the opportunity to extend my trip by 3 days to explore the region outside the fashion capital. After lots of research, I narrowed down on Bologna and it was the best (tastiest) decision ever!
Here’s what to do in Bologna, Italy
Bologna lies in the Emilia-Romagna region of Northern Italy, a mere three-hour train ride away from Milan. Art and beauty embellishes the city with its terracotta rooftops, historic piazzas, and porticoes.
For me, there’s no better way to acquaint myself with a new city than on foot. When you can taste local food along the way while also taking in the sites – that’s my idea of a perfect day! On a rainy morning in October, I joined Francesco Antonelli, our guide with Taste Bologna, at the corner of Basilica Di San Petronio. As part of a small group of ten, we explored the cobblestone streets of Bologna’s historic downtown, absorbing the city’s rich history while indulging in some must-try dishes.
Walking Tour with Taste Bologna
Our journey commenced with a visit to Aroma Coffee. It was opened by Alessandro Galtieriin in 2001 when the specialty coffee scene was nonexistent in Italy. I devoured a Caffe Allo Zabione which is a fusion of espresso and pastry cream infused with Marsala wine. Energized, we then made our way to Le Sfogline, a quaint pasta workshop run by sisters Daniela and Monica Zappoli. While most tortellini are mass-produced in factories these days, we witnessed the artisanal craft of pasta-making here – a tradition that is lovingly upheld by many in this region.
Fresh tortellini is made using eggs and flour, and stuffed with a mix of pork loin, prosciutto, mortadella, parmigiano and nutmeg. The bigger shapes are called tortelloni which come in a variety of stuffing like ricotta, spinach or pumpkin which was in season when I was there in fall.
We then crossed the street to Mercato delle Erbe which is the largest covered market in the city centre. The building has been around since 1910 but was rebuilt in 1949 after being destroyed in the war. Nonnas and tourists alike browsed the stalls for fruits, vegetables, meats, cheese, and other local produce. Francesco enlightened us on the nuances of European Quality Schemes (like PDO – Protected Designation of Origin and PGI – Protected Geographical Indication), guiding us on how to identify high quality produce.
Onto the tasting, we savored a bowl of tortellini in a rich chicken and beef brodo (broth), with parmesan on top. Locals eat it with a parmesan cream in summer which sounds divine!
Bellies satiated, we headed to Quadrilatero. With its labyrinth of alleyways, the bustling area looks like a medieval market stuck back in time. Shops on either side selling everything from fish to flowers to meat, leather goods, produce and more.
Francesco was our man with a plan. We navigated the crowds, picking up an array of things for lunch from different vendors. We got bread and crackers from a local bakery, and cured meats and cheeses from a specialty food store. Bags in hand, we retreated to Osteria del Sole, one of the oldest osterias in Bologna dating back to 1465. We took the large communal table in the back and Francesco laid out all the goods for our family-style, grazing meal <3
Starting with cheese, we had a tangy Pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano aged 30 months, and Squacquerone (pronounced skwa-kwa-row-nay). This delicate, creamy cow’s milk cheese is a PDO so very specific to this region. I loved the taste and texture of this cheese, especially paired with fig jam.
We also tried Friggione (pronounced free-jo-nay) which is a stewed, caramelized onion and tomato chutney, real Mortadella from Bologna, Proscuitto from Parma and Salami Rosa which looks like marbled mortadella but tastes better! To finish, we shared a bottle of Pignoletto which is a local frizzante – a fitting finale to cheers with new friends!
I absolutely LOVED this lunch experience because I’m a huge fan of the grazing style of eating, huddled over nibbles, cheeses and meats, with good conversation flowing.
We ended the tour at a gelato shop near where we started. Of course I tried the Sicilian pistachio flavour because, when in Italy…
DETAILS:
I booked the Classic Bologna Food Tour with Taste Bologna for 89€.
Have you been to Bologna? Would you add it to your travel itinerary?
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